Gardener's Checklist for November
With the start of November, winter can't be far behind. Just as we enjoy extra blankets during cold weather nights, the garden beds benefit from being properly prepared for frigid temperatures. Here's this month's garden tips:
•Sow seeds of hardy flowers, such as calendula, larkspur and sweet pea.
•Plant bare-root plants when they're dormant and the air temperature is cool.
•Rake fallen leaves from the lawn.
•All trees and shrubs should be deeply watered before winter.
•Stake newly planted trees to protect them from winter winds.
•Wrap arborvitae and other upright evergreens that could be split by heavy snow.
•Resist the temptation to pile mulch up around the trunks of your trees and shrubs. Keep the base of the plant free of mulch while keeping the area under the canopy covered with 2 - 4 inches of mulch.
•Turn your houseplants regularly for even growth.
•Winterize roses and mulch perennials and strawberries after the ground freezes.
•Continue to remove weeds from the garden.
•Place all leaves and dead annual and perennial foliage in the compost pile.
•Turn and water the compost pile to keep it working.
•Dig up and store tender bulbs, corms or tubers.
•Have you planted your spring-flowering bulbs? If not, do this before the ground freezes.
•Continue mowing the lawn at 2 « - 3 inches until the grass stops growing.
•The late fall fertilization of the lawn should be done after the grass stops growing. Extension has details on the type and amount of fertilizer to apply.
•Turn over or rough till your vegetable garden if soil erosion is not a problem. A cover crop of winter rye can still be planted if it's done as early in the month as possible.
•Place hardware cloth or plastic guards around fruit trees.
•Pot paperwhite narcissus for forcing indoors.
•Don't overwater your houseplants.
•Have your lawn mower and other power equipment serviced.
•Clean and repair garden tools. Drain and bring in all of your garden hoses.
•Feed the birds.
•And, have a nice November!
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Storing Pumpkins
Pumpkins will store for a long time if cured after harvesting. Select pumpkins that are free of nicks and cuts, and fruits that have the stem firmly attached. Cure pumpkins at 80 to 85 degrees F with a relative humidity of 80% to 85% for 10 days. Then store them at 50 to 60 degrees F with a relative humidity of 50% to 70%. Keep the skin of the pumpkin dry by placing it where there is good air circulation. With these conditions, pumpkins may be stored for 2 to 4 months.
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Planting a Cover Crop Planting a cover crop is one of the best practices for improving soil and reducing weeds. A cover crop is planted in the fall and allowed to grow during the winter and early spring and is then turned under before planting the garden. This is an economical way to add organic matter to the soil. The added organic matter loosens up clay soil and makes nutrients more available to the roots. With sandy soil, the organic matter holds things together more and prevents minerals and nutrients from washing away. The cover crop also prevents weeds from getting started in the spring.
It's not too late to plant winter rye. Sow in early November at a rate of 3 pounds per 1000 square feet of garden. Rake it in and let nature take its course. The rye will cover your garden and almost look like your lawn next spring. Turn the rye under when it is about 10 inches tall in early April. At this time the plant contains a greater percentage of nitrogen than at any stage of development. Then, wait two weeks before planting your garden; this will give the soil microbes time to break down the rye. Or, the top growth can be cut and used as a mulch during the season. The roots and stubble will enhance soil organic matter.
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Preparing for a Live Christmas Tree
If a live Christmas tree is part of your holiday plans this year, it's necessary to prepare the hole where the tree will grow before the soil freezes. The depth of the hole depends on the size of the tree and the soil, but a hole 1 - 2 feet deep would not be unusual for a standard size tree. To be more accurate, call the grower and ask for the approximate size of the root ball for the size tree you're planning to purchase. If you're lucky and have well-drained sandy loam soil, the tree should be positioned in the hole at the same level it was growing in the nursery. This can be identified by the soil line of the trunk of the tree. Most Ohio soils, however, are not well drained. They usually consist of silt and clay particles, and drainage is often less than desirable. In soils that drain poorly, plants should be planted somewhat higher than they were in the nursery. More air needs to reach the root system when soils drain poorly. In these soil conditions, plants can be placed from 2 to 4 inches higher than they were during their growth in the nursery.
The width of the planting hole should be at least 2 or 3 times the diameter of the root ball. Recent research results have indicated feeder roots of trees and shrubs remain close to the soil surface, usually in the top 6 to 9 inches. This suggests that the major area of soil preparation should be the upper 12 inches, and the wider the area prepared for planting, the better. Fill the hole with straw to prevent the soil from freezing.
The sides of the planting hole will become compacted or glazed before you're ready to plant the tree in late December. Before planting the tree, use a shovel or spade to roughen the smooth surface. This provides for better air and moisture movement as well as root penetration.
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Scale Insects
Scale insects are a common pest of houseplants and can be found stunting and deforming plants throughout the year. Any of several different species of scale insects may be found on plants in the home or greenhouse. They all have in common a waxy or shell-like covering over the body of the sessile insect.
Most scales are tan or brown and vary from 1/16 to 1/4 inch in diameter. Scales may be found on the stems and/or leaves. Some scales are hemispherical in shape, while others are oval and flat.
Scale insects feed on plant sap sucked thorough a slender stylet that remains inserted constantly into the plant tissue. Sap loss may cause poor, stunted growth. Death of infested plants is possible in severe cases. More commonly noticed than the scales is the large quantity of a sweet sticky liquid called honeydew that is excreted by the scale insects. Honeydew can make a sticky, shiny mess on the plant and nearby furniture and floors. A black fungus called sooty mold may grow on the honeydew.
Scale insects are often difficult to control. There are several well-known remedies that can be tried in an attempt to eliminate scales from a houseplant. However, there is no easy, simple cure for a scale infestation. One possibility is to pick off individual scales or gently scrub (or rub) the scales loose from the leaves and stems. This is a laborious task that works only on small, large-leafed plants.
Dabbing each scale with an alcohol-soaked cotton swab is another possibility on lightly infested plants. Sprays can be used but success will depend upon thoroughness and persistence. Aerosol or hand pump insecticide sprays made just for houseplants are available at garden centers. Insecticides must be applied thoroughly and correctly to get good control.
Granular insecticides that you add to the soil of infested houseplants seem to have very limited effectiveness and their use in the home is discouraged because of toxicity concerns. On those plants that regrow after pruning, remove the heavily infested stems and treat the remainder of the plant. Finally, unless the plant is particularly valuable, many people find it best to throw away infested plants before the pests spread to other houseplants.
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Growing an Amaryllis
Amaryllis are popular flowering bulbs which are grown for their spectacular bloom during the winter months. Bulbs are available pre-planted in pots or unpotted. The unpotted bulbs usually cost less, plus the potting procedure is simple. All that are needed are a good well-drained potting soil and a suitable container.
Amaryllis bulbs should be planted in pots which are approximately 1 to 2 inches wider than the diameter of the bulb.Containers may be plastic or clay, but should have drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. Add a small amount of potting soil to the bottom of the pot. Center the bulb in the middle of the pot. Then add additional potting soil, firming it around the roots and bulb.When finished potting, the upper one-half to two-thirds of thebulb should remain above the soil surface. Also, leave about an inch between the soil surface and the pot's rim. Then, water well and place in a cool (60 F) location. Water sparingly until growth appears. When growth begins, water more frequently, move the plant to a warm, sunny window and apply a water-soluble fertilizer everyto 2 to 4 weeks.
Flowering normally occurs about 4 to 6 weeks after potting. A large, top grade bulb should produce two flower stalks with four flowers on each stem. The individual flowers may be 6 to 8 inches in diameter.
Pot amaryllis bulbs in mid-November for bloom during the Christmas. Then cross your fingers. Forcing an amaryllis bulb is not an exact science. No one can be sure when the amaryllis will actually bloom. The flower display, regardless, will be spectacular.
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Using Annual Flowers as Houseplants
Annuals by definition are plants that survive just one growing season. Some annuals are actually perennials or even woody shrubs in their natural environments, but because they are not frost tolerant, they cannot survive our winters. Many gardeners try to avoid the inevitable by overwintering some of their prized annuals indoors. Some annuals overwinter easier than others. For example, many gardeners successfully overwinter their geraniums from year to year.
Another popular annual, impatiens, can also be grown indoors. Take stem cuttings from desired varieties in late summer. Root cuttings in perlite or coarse sand. After rooting, pot them into well-drained potting media. Because light duration is lacking during the winter months, place the potted plants in a bright, sunny location. If you do not have optimal light conditions, artificial lighting may be the answer. Impatiens that have spent the summer in containers can be pinched back leaving one-third of their original height and brought indoors. This also applies for the popular New Guinea impatiens.
Fibrous begonias also make attractive interior plants. Because they have a fibrous root system, they can easily be dug from the ground and placed in containers for the winter. Like the impatiens, trim the tops back to about one-third of their original height. Dwarf varieties are the most successful for indoor use.
Before bringing plants indoors for the winter, make sure plants are healthy and insect free. Acclimate plants to their indoor environment well in advance of cool temperatures. Though frost may take the majority of our annual color, some can be brought indoors to brighten our winter months.
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Composting Diseased Plants
A common question asked by gardeners is whether diseased plants can be safely composted. The best answer is no. A temperature of 131 to 170 degrees for a sustained period of time is necessary to kill plant disease spores. A compost pile can achieve these temperatures, but most backyard and community garden piles are probably not large enough or maintained properly to kill disease spores and weed seed. Spores not killed by the composting process can infect your plants when the finished compost is applied to the garden soil. The best advice is to bag diseased material for disposal.
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Chimineas
"Chiminea" is Spanish for fireplace or stove. For those of you who enjoy the warmth and aroma of a fire, a chiminea allows you to bring your fireplace outdoors. A chiminea will extend your outdoor season by taking the chill off the night or morning air.
Many chimineas are imported from Mexico and made from clay that's denser than terra cotta and can be fired at higher temperatures. Chimineas are durable and affordable. Used properly, your chiminea will bring you years of enjoyment.
The first fire you build will begin the final curing and insure the lasting durability and maximum enjoyment of your outdoor fireplace. Place the chiminea in a metal stand or on non-flammable ground four feet from fences, railings, buildings, or any other surface that may ignite. Do not allow small children or pets near the unit. Pour about 4 inches of pea gravel into the bottom of the chiminea. For the first fire, wad newspaper and small twigs. Allow the chiminea to cool completely. Repeat for the second and third fires adding a small log each time. The unit will then be properly cured. Keep the chiminea dry. If it does become wet, allow it to dry completely before lighting.
Your chiminea will be a conversation piece that will fit in any decor or surrounding. Whether on your deck, patio, pond-side, or pool-side your chiminea will add warmth and comfort to your morning with coffee and the newspaper or that special gathering with family and friends.
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Cyclamen
The cyclamen is the ideal flowering plant for a cool environment. The distinctive plant has dark green, heart-shaped leaves with silver markings. The flowers, produced on long stems held above the foliage, point downward and somewhat resemble badminton shuttlecocks or "birdies." Flower colors are available in shades of white, pink, and red.
Select healthy, dark green plants which have just begun to flower. A check beneath the leaf canopy will reveal the number of unopened buds.
The cyclamen should be placed in a sunny, cool location. A temperature of 50 to 65 degrees is ideal. Keep the soil moist, but avoid getting water in the crown of the plant as it may promote rotting. Fertilize the plant every 2 weeks while in bloom. When given proper care, individual flowers may last 3 to 4 weeks and plants may bloom continuously for several months.
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Winterizing Garden Equipment
Now is an excellent time to winterize garden tools and yard equipment. A little preventative maintenance now can prevent frustration and expensive repair in the future. Proper maintenance also extends the life of tools and equipment and makes working with them easier and more efficient.
While hoses don't need a great deal of care, the care that we provide is important if we want them to last. Rule one--don't kink the hose. Any kink becomes a weak point in the hose and kinks restrict water flow. Quite often the hose will crack in those locations. Store hoses on hose supports or reels or coil loosely rather than hanging them on nails. Hose supports or reels prevent sagging and kinking. Before storing hoses away for the winter, drain all the water from them and store in a dry location.
Remove caked on dirt or vegetation from all tools using a wire brush, scraper or a strong stream of water. Lubricate all pivot points and springs. Sharpen your tools and check all tools thoroughly for loose screws or nuts and tighten them accordingly. Replace or repair broken handles and other bent or broken parts. Finally, spray all bare metal parts and cutting edges with penetrating oil to prevent rust. Wipe wooden handles with boiled linseed oil to help prevent wood from cracking and drying.
Sprayers used for insect, disease, and weed control should be thoroughly washed and rinsed. Most pesticides recommend triple rinsing. This includes all parts of the sprayer from the holding tank to the nozzles. Apply oil to moving parts as required; follow the directions provided for your particular sprayer.
Wheelbarrows, carts and wagons may also need some attention before winter. Clean them thoroughly and touch up paint chips with spray paint to prevent exposed steel from rusting. Grease wheels to prevent squeaking.
Power equipment, such as lawn mowers, tillers and chippers, require additional winter preparations. Consult your owner's manuals or take them to a reliable service shop soon so you'll have them ready when spring arrives.
This is the time of the year when many gardeners feel they've finally caught up with all their activities. However, don't put your feet up until after the maintenance projects have been completed.
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Birches
Birch bark is a welcome feature in landscapes year-round, but as winter approaches, the flaky exfoliating bark takes on even greater appeal. The beauty of birches comes with a price in Ohio landscapes, of course, as many of the birches with white bark also have serious insect problems, most importantly the bronze birch borer. For example, European white birch is notoriously short-lived due to this pest. Gray birch has whitish bark that can also be magnificent, as evidenced by the Birch Allee at Stan Hywet Hall in Akron. And, gray birch is also plagued by bronze birch borer, necessitating considerable sprays and additional maintenance.
Fortunately, there are birches much more tolerant of the stress of Ohio summers and less susceptible to major insect pests. One increasingly popular favorite is river birch. Visit an arboretum or nursery to appreciate the majesty of a Heritage river birch and its ever-pealing multi-hued bark of salmons, whites, and cinnamon-browns. Another birch with special features is sweet birch with smooth dark reddish- brown bark, reminiscent of wild black cherry. It is a wonderful plant for the senses, proving that birches have year-round appeal: lightly scratch the bark and inhale the refreshing scent of wintergreen. Sweet birch is also absolutely stunning right now, with fall foliage just changing from earlier lemon yellows to glowing golds.
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Hornets
The baldfaced hornet can cause concern when its formidable paper-like nest is noticed in trees, eaves, or other structures around the home, especially in autumn after leaves have fallen. Nests are grayish-brown, inverted, pear-shaped, and can be up to three feet in height, with the entrance at the bottom.
Hornets are 3/4 inch long, with black and white markings on the face, middle body part (thorax), and tip of the abdomen. These insects are considered beneficial in agriculture because they feed on house flies, blow flies and harmful caterpillars. Being a social insect, it lives in colonies containing workers, queens, and males. Colonies are annual with the worker populations dying off after a hard freeze or several frosts. Only fertilized queens overwinter in protected places such as hollow logs, leaf litter, soil cavities, or under bark. Previous year's nests are not reused.
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Storing Seeds
Most of any leftover vegetable or flower seeds in packets that you may have from this year's garden, will remain good for 3 to 5 years. The key to saving these seeds for next year is to keep them cool and dry. Leftover seeds in their original packets (it's good to keep these for identification and planting information) can be placed in closable plastic bags or in jars in the refrigerator.
If you're unsure of the quality of your seeds before storing, or after long periods of storage, do a germination test. Place 10 to 20 seeds from a packet between moist pieces of paper towel inside a plastic bag. Place the bag in a warm location where the temperature is from 70 to 90 degrees F - on top of the refrigerator is a good place. If more than half the seeds germinate within a week or two, you're ready to roll!
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Witchhazel
Just when you thought the season was finished for flowering landscape plants, the common witchhazel comes into bloom. November into December is the time for these often spicily fragrant yellow blossoms. The odd strap-like petals are not spectacularly showy, but are instead a subtly delightful final hurrah to the floral season. Common witchhazel is most effective in a shrub border in naturalized settings, and is tolerant of variable sun exposures, but is relatively intolerant of dry sites.
Then after closing out the old year with common witchhazel, welcome in the flowering of the new with January-March blooming of vernal witchhazel and Chinese witchhazel, with similar but often wider yellow and red strap-like petals. These witchhazels remind us on dark, cold February days of Shelley's "If Winter comes can Spring be far behind?" They also are a good way to hurry spring even further - force early flowering by putting some cut branches in water for an indoor treat.
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American Bittersweet
Those who enjoy creating fall arrangements may want to consider growing the American Bittersweet. It's fruit is a three-lobed capsule that splits open to expose a showy, yellow-orange fruit. It is much sought after and sometimes a bit difficult to find in local markets.
This vigorous, fast growing, deciduous, twining vine can be found for sale in some nurseries and garden centers, but a male and female are needed in order to produce the colorful fruit. Bittersweet is easy to grow, able to withstand any soil condition, and pH adaptable. It is best to locate the plant in a poor soil site since it will quickly overgrow its bounds when placed in fertile soil. Full sun is required for best fruiting. Information taken from the Manual of Woody Landscape Plants by Michael Dirr.
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Storing Pesticides
If you use garden pesticides, proper storage of unused products is essential to maintaining shelf-life, as well as for household safety. Keep the following in mind when storing pesticides:
■Always store pesticide products in their original containers with their original labels and out of the reach of children and pets.
■Do not store unused portions of pesticides that have been mixed for application. Try to never mix more than you'll need in any one application. If it can't all be applied, dispose of it according to label recommendations.
■Some pesticides begin to slowly break down once the container is opened. Extremes of temperatures, humidity, and light can cause products to lose effectiveness. Reseal open containers tightly, and store where temperatures will not reach extremes.
■Mark the date the product was bought directly on the original container before storing for winter.
■Most unopened pesticides will remain effective for many years.
If you have any questions about a pesticide you have stored, call the manufacturer. There is usually a customer service number printed on the label.
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Terrariums
Terrariums are great gifts to make now for the holidays!
A terrarium is an independent, self-supporting, small-scale ecosystem that duplicates conditions in gardens, forests or deserts. Terrariums are easy to assemble and will grow luxuriantly for many months with little attention.
Before inserting plants in the terrarium, you should arrange them in an attractive composition outside the container. In your design try to create a miniature living landscape by placing plants in the terrarium to achieve good color, texture and size relationships.
Any container that will not shut out light can be used for a terrarium. A cover may or may not be necessary depending on the size of the container.
Before beginning to construct your terrarium, be sure the container is clean. The charcoal or small stones are placed at the lowest part of the terrarium to form a base for the soil mix. Next fill the container with a soilless mix. Generally the charcoal or small stones and the mix should not comprise more than one-fifth to a quarter of the total volume of the container.
After filling the terrarium to the desired volume of soil, create the desired terrain before planting.
Once planted, the interior of the container should be misted with a bulb sprayer and covered. If the interior fogs, remove the cover to let the planting dry for a day or two. If beads of moisture collect on the interior of the glass, the watering was about right. Only water when the soil surface appears dry, then only spray enough to just moisten the soil.
Some of the following plants could be included in a terrarium: Creeping fig, English ivy, Baby's tears, Strawberry begonia, Club moss, small ferns, Dwarf gloxinia and African violets.
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Plants with Colorful Fruits
Here are some suggestions for plants that produce attractive fruits in the fall that persist into the winter.
■The red chokeberry's combination of lustrous green leaves turning to scarlet with varnished red fruits is spectacular, and will be for weeks to come, with showy fruits lasting even longer. Red chokeberry is adaptable to varied sites, but fruits best in the sun. Aronia is in the rose family and is susceptible to fireblight.
■Tiny bead-like glossy lilac-colored clusters of fruits radiating out from still green leaves are almost other-worldly in the fall landscape that includes purple beautyberry. The shoots arch gracefully up, out, and back to the ground and the plant can be pruned nearly to the ground before new growth each spring, much like butterfly bush.
■The highbush cranberry is in the same family as the elderberry (commercial cranberries are in the same genus as blueberries, and the same family as other acid-loving plants, such as rhododendrons and heaths). Fruit size and color are the only similarities between commercial cranberries and highbush cranberries.
Highbush cranberries may reach a height of 12 feet, and become rounded and formal in appearance. Fruits are showy red and very persistent, brightening the winter landscape. Plants are tolerant of sun or shade, and perform well on a wide range of soil types. They work well as a barrier, and are extremely winter hardy. Pruning becomes necessary only when plants become bushy and overgrown.
■Everyone is familiar with the flaming red fall foliage of burning bush and the many glossy green and variegated types of evergreen euonymus, such as wintercreeper. Less well known, but quite unusual and attractive, is winterberry euonymus, a shrub or small tree that can reach over 20 feet tall. The autumnal attraction is the fabulous fruit contrasting now with light green leaves. Fruits are four lobed capsules, split open to reveal contrasting colors of salmon pink and intense orange-reds.
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Virginia Creeper
Virginia Creeper or Woodbine is a deciduous vine that is native to the eastern United States. Its leaves, which turn to brilliant crimson in fall and consist of five leaflets, are alternately arranged on woody stems. The deep blue berries become effective after leaf drop and are quite attractive to birds.
Virginia Creeper is an excellent, tough, low-maintenance cover for walls and trellises. The vine does not need support, but actually cements itself to structures with its long adhesive-tipped tendrils. Virginia Creeper is easily propagated from softwood cuttings.
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Salsify
Perhaps it's because salsify with its hairy root resembles a key ingredient of witch's brew, or because its common name - oyster plant - makes two-thirds of the population squeamish, but salsify has fallen to the bottom of the popularity heap in vegetabledom. Try finding it at the grocery store or farmer's market. Seed companies have taken the hint; only a handful offer the seed for sale anymore.
As odd as salsify may look or sound, its flavor is to vegetables what vanilla pudding is to desserts. Imported to this country centuries ago from Europe, salsify produces thick, grasslike leaves and purple flowers in May and June. The lower stalk and leaves are edible, but it's the foot-long white root that most people cook and that imparts the subtle oyster flavor for which it is named. Salsify has long been a staple in peasant cooking in the old country, but in North America, having naturalized in the wild, it has faded into the landscape, its mild flavor and crunchy texture not flashy enough to captivate cook's imaginations, especially now that every vegetable in the rainbow is available all four seasons.
Salsify is also the common name for Spanish salsify or Scorzonera, from the same family as Tragopogon but very different in appearance. Scorzonera leaves are thick and fleshy. The plant is a hardy perennial with yellow flowers, and its roots are black and ominous-looking. The root, however, tastes much like that of the oyster plant, and cultural and cooking techniques are the same for both.
Salsify is grown much like carrots. Seeds are sown in early spring over ground that has been deeply tilled and cleared of stones or rocks. The plants have low nitrogen requirements, virtually no pests, and need about four months to mature. Roots are harvested in early fall, or they can be overwintered under mulch in mild climates (Zones 5 and higher). Once harvested, salsify must be used right away for, unlike carrots, the roots do not store well.
Both types of salsify bleed a milky juice that turns the salsify flesh black upon exposure to air. To prevent discoloration, the root should be soaked in acidulated water before cooking.
Recipes for salsify are as scarce as the seed. Served raw in salads or boiled in sauces or stews, salsify is a crunchy mild vegetable that, once upon a time was as common as parsnips on fall and winter menus. Now that avocados and asparagus are available year-round, salsify is hard pressed to find a place at the table.
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Red Chokeberry
Red Chokeberry, a deciduous shrub, is recommended by the Ohio Nursery and Landscape Association. Red chokeberry produce lustrous dark green leaves that turn brilliant red in fall. White flowers in May are followed by glossy red berries that last long into autumn. Red chokeberry grows 6-10' tall and 3-5' wide. It can be somewhat leggy, so a border or mass planting is very effective for both foliage and fruit.
The cultivar 'Brilliantissima' produces more abundant flowers and glossier red fruit, plus fall color that rivals the burning bush. Red chokeberry transplants well, prefers moist soil, but is adaptable to many soil types. It can be grown in full sun or half shade, but best fruit production occurs in full sun.
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Preparing the Garden for Winter
The leaves are falling, and there's a crisp chill in the air. Before winter sets in for good, take the time to do some fall cleaning. Your perennials and other plants will get through the winter better, and you'll be able to skip a few steps and jump-start your planting next spring.
■Tidy the garden and flower beds. Pull out all of the annual plants from your garden. Remove the entire plant, including the roots. Shred the debris with your mower or shredder, and then compost them if possible. Don't pull out the perennials, though. They're flowers and vegetables that grow year after year without replanting. Cut the tops off perennials after they have dried, usually in late fall.
■Save container plant soil. You can keep soil used in container plants from year to year if the plants remain disease-free. When it starts to compress and compact, mix in perlite or a light potting mix to improve the soil's texture. If you have outdoor plants potted in containers year-round, provide some insulation from cold temperatures or drying wind.
■Maintain perennials. Remove tender corms and tubers. Corms, such as the gladioli, are modified bulbs that have vertical stems, thin scales and roots at the base. Tubers, which include cyclamen and begonias, have underground stems that form new plants from buds or eyes. Place the corms and tubers in dry sand, shredded paper, sawdust or peat moss. Keep them at about 45 degrees Fahrenheit by storing them in a basement or unheated garage. Check them occasionally to make sure they are not rotting from excessive moisture or shriveling from excessive dryness.
■Rake the leaves on a regular basis. A thick layer of leaves can kill the grass by cutting off oxygen and preventing light from reaching the blades.
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Protecting Trees and Shrubs from Winter Damage
It is often necessary to give a little extra attention to trees and shrubs in the fall to help them overwinter and start spring in peak condition. Understanding certain principles and cultural practices will significantly reduce winter damage to woody ornamentals.
Much of the disappointment and frustration of winter-damaged plants can be avoided by planning ahead. Select hardy plants. Grow plant materials that are either native or are known to be winter hardy in your area.
Follow recommended cultural practices. Avoid late-summer or early fall fertilization that may stimulate new growth for frost to kill. Fertilize in late fall when the plants can use the nutrients to "keep up their strength," rather than put on new growth. Avoid late-summer pruning, as this also stimulates new growth, but keep the plants properly pruned at appropriate times to remove weak branches with narrow crotch angles. Water plants deeply in preparation for winter. Also, water deeply on warm days in January, February, and March.
Mulching reduces water loss and soil heaving while allowing the roots a little more time to grow in the fall. Leave several inches of bare ground between the trunk and the mulch to discourage mice from nesting and feeding on the bark.
The majority of winter damage can be divided into three categories: desiccation, freezing, and breakage. Desiccation, or drying out, can be particularly damaging to evergreens, causing discolored or burned foliage and even plant death. Leaves continue to transpire in the winter, though at a lesser rate than in the summer. Winter winds can increase the rate of transpiration, causing the plant to dry out, particularly if the ground is frozen and the plant cannot take up more water.
Freezing damage most commonly occurs in the fall or spring, when green wood (new growth) or blossoms are susceptible to sudden frost. Mid-winter freezing often takes the form of bark splitting. On a relatively warm day, the sun can really heat up dark-colored tree trunks and get the sap flowing; if a severe freeze occurs that night, the bark may split.
Breakage is usually caused by a combination of ice, snow, or wind. The weight of ice and snow can break even large, strong branches, especially if the wind further taxes the plant's physical strength. Another cause of breakage is improper removal of ice and snow. Frozen, laden limbs are very brittle and snap easily if bent the wrong way. Remove snow before it can accumulate by sweeping the branches UPWARD with a broom to lift off the snow without further stressing the limbs.
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Mexican Oregano
Mexicn oregano is a tender perennial that is grown for its aromatic scent and beautifully variegated foliage - which is both coarse and large (2.5 x 4 inches). It can be grown as a ground cover or used in hanging baskets; it also performs well as an indoor foliage plant and is frequently grown as an exotic herb for the kitchen.
Mexican oregano has the bonus quality of performing well in filtered light situations - such as under a trellis or in lightly shaded areas of the garden. This plant is easy to propagate (like most coleus hybrids), and has no serious pest problems. A mature plant grows to a 12-18 inch mound, or drapes nicely over the sides of a pot with its stem keeping an upturned habit that dramatically displays each leaf. Even during persistently hot days of summer Mexican oregano continues to thrive without hesitation.
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Keeping the Pop in Popcorn
Homegrown popcorn needs to be properly conditioned for the best popping quality. Popcorn should begin popping in 80-90 seconds in a preheated popper. Improper moisture content, either too much or too little, is the usual problem if popcorn is popping poorly.
Test pop the corn to see if it is sufficiently dry. If it pops slowly and with lots of noise and steam, it is too moist. Popcorn should be allowed to dry thoroughly on the stalk and then cured in a warm, well-ventilated area for about 2-3 weeks. After curing, remove the kernels from the cob by rubbing one ear against another, starting at the tip of one ear and working down to the base.
Popcorn that is too dry will scorch rather than pop. Overly dry popcorn can be rescued by adding about 1 T of water per quart of popcorn. Shake well twice a day for a couple of days. Add more water if test popping doesn't improve.
To maintain proper moisture content, store the kernels in airtight containers and keep in a cool location.
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Fertilizing the Lawn
Research at Ohio State University has shown that lawns can be dramatically improved by a late season fertilization. This feeding is done after the grass stops growing after the first frost. This fertilization increases root growth which enables the lawn to better survive the adverse conditions of winter and the droughts of summer. Also, the lawn will stay green longer into the winter and green up earlier in the spring.
The most important nutrient in this late fall feeding is nitrogen. It should be applied at a recommended rate of 1 to 2 pounds of actual nitrogen per 1000 square feet of lawn. Extension has a listing of different fertilizer formulations and how much of each to spread to achieve the 1 to 2 pounds of actual nitrogen.
This late fall feeding will not cause a surge of growth, but you can expect improved color and quality of your lawn next spring. And, remember to reduce the fertilizer application at that time.
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Ginkgo
Ginkgo biloba is a fascinating tree owing to its fan-shaped leaves, unusual form and taxonomical standing. The ginkgo is a gymnosperm, that group of cone-bearing seed plants, and thus, is more closely related to conifers than to other broad-leaf deciduous trees. Leaves are of a bright green color turning to a bright, clean yellow in the fall. It will reach a height of 50-80' with a spread of 30-40'. There are a few cultivars that are columnar in shape. These are sometimes used as street trees because of their tolerance of pollution.
Horticulturist Michael Dirr, in his Manual of Woody Landscape Plants, describes Ginkgo as follows: "Excellent city tree, public areas, perhaps too large for street use but is used extensively for this purpose; a well developed Ginkgo is an impressive sight; often looks out of place in the small residential landscape because of unique foliage and winter habit; tends to be somewhat gaunt and open in youth but with time becomes one of the most spectacular of all trees; fall color alone is sufficient reason to plant the tree.". Select only the named male cultivars because the females bear a foul smelling fruit. Ginkgo is extremely pest free and hardy from zones 3-8.
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Recycling with Worms
Red worms can turn your fruit and vegetable scraps into worm castings that are rich in nutrients and readily available to plants. It's a process called worm composting or vermicomposting. And, it can be done in the home with little or no odor. People are known to have incorporated a decorative worm box right into their kitchen decor!
You'll need a wooden or plastic (be sure it's a recyclable grade!) box with a lid. Drill a few holes in the bottom for drainage and cover the holes with fiberglass window screen so the worms can't get out. Keep the box out of direct sunlight in an area between 50 and 77 degrees Fahrenheit. Cover the bottom of the box with 8 inches of sawdust or shredded newspaper and moisten it.
Place the red worms in the box and keep the box open so the worms will move away from the light and into the bedding. Then place fruit and vegetable scraps over half the bedding and cover it with a little more moist bedding.
Keep the bedding moist, but not wet. Feed on one side of the box until the bedding is broken down. This will take 3 to 6 months with sawdust. The finished side will look like humus. Then, start feeding on the other side of the box. The worms will move into the fresh side within a month. You can then harvest the humus. It will contain worm eggs. Fill the empty side with 8 inches of fresh moist bedding. Continue to alternate feeding sides.
Live worms will not survive in your garden. But, worms hatched from the eggs you place there with the humus will live and further enrich your garden soil.
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Prairies
What is the difference between a prairie and a meadow? Prairie is simply the French word for meadow. When early French explorers arrived at the American grasslands, they described them with the only word they had, "prairie". Today, native Midwestern grasslands are called prairies, and eastern grasslands are typically referred to as meadows.
The primary distinction between these two grassland communities is that the prairie tends to be dominated by heat-loving "warm-season" grasses and flowers, while the Eastern meadow has a higher complement of "cool-season" grasses and flowers. The Midwestern prairie is subject to more severe and prolonged periods of heat and drought, while the eastern meadow experiences higher average rainfall, higher relative humidities, and less extreme summer temperatures. Nevertheless, many of the same species are found in both communities.
"Natural" eastern meadows are almost always a result of recolonization of old fields by both native species and naturalized exotic species. For this reason, non-native plants are commonly included in commercial meadow mixes. Prairies are usually thought of as strictly native, original grasslands, where non-native species are considered unacceptable. (Source: Neil Diboll, Prairie Nursery, Westfield, Wisconsin.)
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Yellow Leaves on Houseplants
Don't be alarmed if houseplants shed a few leaves this time of year. Even if the plants have been in the same location for a long period of time, the amount of light available to them changes as the days become shorter. It's not unusual for some of the lower leaves to yellow and drop as a result. If leaf drop seem excessive, however, consider moving the plant to a sunnier location or adding supplemental lighting.
In general, since plant growth will slow down this time of year, cut back on fertilizer and water more cautiously. By next March, houseplants should start to show signs of new growth. At that time, return to your regular fertilizer and water regimen.
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Firewood Insects
As the weather gets colder, a cheery fire in the hearth or wood-burning stove has definite appeal. Here are a few tips to remember when bringing firewood into the house. A stack of firewood is an ideal place for insects and spiders to hibernate through the cold season. Always wear gloves when reaching into a wood pile. The brown recluse and black widow spiders are not found in large numbers in Ohio but are found here occasionally, with a wood pile as a choice location for overwintering. Other pests living in wood piles include: Roundheaded Borers, Flatheaded Borers, Bark Beetles, Ambrosia Beetles, Powderpost Beetles, Carpenter Ants and Termites, Horntail Wasps, Carpenter Bees, Darkling Beetles, and Pennsylvania Woods Roaches.
Store firewood outdoors in an open area, as far away from the house as practical, to keep out insects, dirt and debris. Stack firewood off the ground to eliminate wood rot and pest problems. Never stack wood against the house. Cover the wood pile with dark polyurethane plastic or sheet metal roofing to keep the wood dry. When cold weather arrives, pieces of firewood can be moved nearer to the house for easy access. Firewood should be stored on a rack, patio or deck instead of on the ground.
Bring only enough firewood into the house to be burned immediately. Firewood stored inside the home over an hour or so may warm up enough for the insects to emerge from within or under the bark and start their spring activities early. Do not store firewood in a heated garage or basement for the same reasons.
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Bromeliads
Bromeliads are native to the tropics and subtropics. They vary dramatically in appearance, but most have strap-shaped leaves arranged in a rosette. This rosette of leaves forms a cup where water collects, providing moisture and nutrients to the plant. The flower stalk emerges from the center of the rosette when the plant matures. The leaves at the rosette's center become brightly colored before the flower stalk appears. In nature, the bright colors attract pollinating insects.
Some bromeliads grow on soil while others grow attached to the trunks and branches of trees in nature. They do not derive any nutrition from the tree; they are not parasitic. The pineapple is the best known terrestrial bromeliad.
Native to the tropics, bromeliads thrive at room temperatures of 65 degrees or higher and high humidity. Light requirements vary with the species with the terrestrial types generally requiring the brightest direct light.
The central cup should be kept full of water. To avoid having the water stagnate, pour it out monthly and replace it with fresh water.
Fertilize actively growing bromeliads monthly with a liquid houseplant fertilizer at half the recommended strength.
Potting soil for terrestrial bromeliads should be porous and neutral to slightly acidic. A professional potting mix or seed-starting mix is ideal. Epiphytic types, those that grow on trees, may be attached to a frame or branch by placing a clump of sphagnum peat moss between the plant and the frame and holding the plant in place with wire.
Bromeliads make ideal gifts for anyone who enjoys plants and especially true for the plant lover who lacks a green thumb.
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Foul-smelling Compost
Foul-smelling Compost
One of the first things many people ask when the subject of composting is discussed is, "What about the odor?"
The right mix of materials, air and water are necessary for bacteria to compost yard waste to humus. A foul-smelling compost pile results from too little air being available to the bacteria within the pile.
One cause of this is the improper mix of materials. Equal weights of green and brown plant matter is the right recipe for composting. Sometimes during the spring and summer, gardeners will attempt to make compost with grass clippings alone. These tend to pack down tightly, particularly when wet. After the available air is used in the center of the pile, the anaerobic bacteria, those that don't need oxygen, begin working and produce the rotten egg odor. Mixing in some brown material such as woodchips, sawdust or straw will help in this case.
If the pile is too wet, water can push air from the center of the pile and result in bad odors. When the moisture level of the pile is under your control, a handful of compost should feel slightly damp like a wrung out sponge. If it becomes too wet due to overwatering or excessive rainfall, the situation can be corrected by adding more dry material or by turning the pile.
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Climbing Hydrangea
Climbing Hydrangea is considered by some to be the best of all climbing vines for the landscape. This is a true clinging vine, climbing by rootlike holdfasts. It is excellent for massive effect on brick or stone walls, arbors, trees and any free structure. Climbing Hydrangea develops in more than one plane, giving depth to the structure it covers. The branches protrude from the structure creating interesting shadows.
Somewhat slow to develop after transplanting, Climbing Hydrangea requires rich, well-drained, moist soil. It can grow in full sun or shade, but is best grown on east or north exposures in adverse climates. It is best handled as a container plant to avoid excessive stress during transplanting. This extra care in establishment will be rewarded in ornamental assets of excellent foliage, flowers and winter bark effect.
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Orchard Sanitation
Many orchard insect pests and disease organisms overwinter in leaf litter and old fruit left on the ground. Fall clean-up of this debris is an important cultural component of an integrated home orchard management strategy.
Oriental Fruit Moth is a pest of peaches, plums and cherries that overwinters as a mature larva encased in a cocoon. These cocoons can be found in peach mummies and other debris on the ground as well as beneath the bark on tree trunks. Apple scab, pear scab and pear leaf spot are fungal diseases that over winter on dead leaves. Collect and destroy old leaves from these trees as well as from nearby flowering crabapples.
Although sanitation will not provide complete control of these problems, it may help keep the pest and disease levels down to a more manageable or tolerable level.
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Fall Favorites
It is still not quite time to give in to the winter winds; here are four more final fall favorites.
■Winterberry euonymus. Everyone is familiar with the flaming red fall foliage of burning bush and the many glossy green and variegated types of evergreen euonymus, such as wintercreeper. Less well known, but quite unusual and attractive, is winterberry euonymus, a shrub or small tree that can reach over 20 feet tall. The autumnal attraction is the fabulous fruit contrasting now with light green leaves. Fruits are four lobed capsules, split open to reveal contrasting colors of salmon pink and intense orange-reds.
■Dwarf fothergilla. This small shrub has become more popular in recent years for its fragrant bottlebrush-like cream-white flowers, its attractive scalloped leaves, and its mounded shape. It also has fall foliage of flaming oranges and reds that are still effective on northern Ohio through early to mid November.
■Taxus. Now that Election Day is past, we can turn once again to raising Taxus. Although it is the quintessential overused "foundation" plant, Taxus can be much more than an oversheared, blocky shaped hedge fast against the house. Taxus comes in many shapes, from upright to spreading, from striking reddish-brown trunks on upright pyramidal tree forms to vast spreading 20 foot by 20 foot open-grown forms of dark green and cherry reds. Yes, reds, for now the fleshy red arils that surround the brown inner poisonous seeds are scattered among the evergreen foliage like tiny holiday ornaments.
■Fallen foliage. Look not just upward for fall finery. Most golden yellow ginkgo leaves fell with the last cold snap and rainstorm, but now are a brilliant temporary groundcover. Look for mitten-like yellow and orange sassafras leaves in reflecting pool puddles. Collect bags of fallen bald cypress, dawn redwood and larch straw, spun into gold by the hands of nature. All three of these trees are deciduous conifers, bearing cones and narrow needle-like leaves, but with leaves changing from green to gold and dropping each fall.
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Poinsettia
Poinsettias are available in red, pink, white, and gold. There are also variegated and marbled poinsettias. Modern varieties are compact, durable, and hold their bracts for several weeks.
Select plants with dark green foliage and brightly colored bracts. Little or no pollen should be showing on the true flowers. (The true flowers are yellow to green, button-like objects located in the center of the colorful bracts.)
Avoid poinsettias with wilted foliage, few or no lower leaves, or broken stems. Also, check the undersides of the leaves for insects. Obviously, no one wants to bring an insect-infested plant into the house. Whiteflies are a common problem on poinsettias.
Before venturing outside, place the poinsettia in a plant sleeve or carefully wrap it to prevent exposure to cold temperatures. Exposure to freezing temperatures, even for a brief moment, may cause the bracts and leaves to blacken and drop. As soon as you get home, unwrap the plant and place it near a sunny window or other well-lighted area. However, don't let the plant touch the cold window pane. Also, keep the poinsettia away from cold drafts or heat outlets. Poinsettias prefer temperatures between 60 to 70 degrees.
Water needs can be determined by the finger test. Check the potting soil daily. When the soil becomes dry to the touch, water the plant until it freely flows out the bottom of the pot. If the pot is wrapped in decorative foil, punch a hole in the foil at the bottom of the pot for water drainage and place a saucer underneath the pot. Discard the excess water which drains into the saucer. Both over- and underwatering cause problems for poinsettias. The lower leaves of overwatered plants turn yellow and drop. Dry plants wilt and also drop leaves prematurely.
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Winter Care for Houseplants
Growing conditions for houseplants are less than ideal during the winter months. Short days and long nights, low relative humidities, and cold drafts can be stressful to many houseplants. Good consistent care, however, should keep them healthy and attractive.
Many houseplants prefer a relative humidity of 40 to 50 percent. Unfortunately, the humidity level in many homes during the winter months may be only 10 to 20 percent. Humidifiers are an excellent way to increase the relative humidity in the home. Simple cultural practices can also increase the relative humidity around houseplants. Grouping plants together is an easy way to raise humidity levels. The water evaporating from the potting soil, plus water lost through the plant foliage, will increase the relative humidity in the vicinity of the houseplants. Another method is to place houseplants on trays (saucers) filled with pea gravel or pebbles. Add water to the trays, but keep the bottoms of the pots above the water line. The evaporation of water from the trays increases the relative humidity.
Misting houseplants is not an effective way to raise the relative humidity. The plant foliage dries quickly after misting. Misting would have to be done several times a day to be effective and is simply not practical.
To compensate for the short days and long nights of winter, move houseplants closer to windows. However, make sure the houseplant foliage doesn't actually touch the cold window. Supplemental lighting is another option.
In general, houseplants require less frequent watering during the winter months than in spring and summer. Most houseplants should be watered when the soil surface becomes dry to the touch. As always when watering houseplants, water thoroughly. Water should drain out the bottoms of the pots. If the water drains into a saucer, discard the excess.
Fertilization is generally not necessary during the winter months as most houseplants are growing very little or resting . Resume fertilization in March or April as growing conditions improve and plants begin to grow more actively.
Temperatures of 55 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit are adequate for most houseplants. During the winter months, keep houseplants away from cold drafts, radiators, and hot air vents.
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Forcing Spring-Flowering Bulbs
Many gardeners delight in producing a breath of spring during the cold winter months. The breath of spring I'm referring to is forcing spring-flowering bulbs. Select bulbs that are large, firm, blemish-free, and of uniform size. Forcing bulbs indoors requires forethought. Most bulbs require at least 12 to 16 weeks of cold treatment to initiate a well developed root system, stems, and flower buds. Giving the bulbs a cold treatment does not mean putting the bulbs in the freezer for part of the winter. Rather, potted bulbs are watered and placed in the refrigerator or another location that is cool but does not freeze. Besides the refrigerator, bulbs can be chilled by placing the containers in a 1 foot deep outdoor trench or cold frame and covering with dry straw or leaves. Other possibilities include an unheated garage or root cellar. Ideal rooting temperatures are between 40 and 45 F.
Bulb forcing requires good quality bulbs, a well-drained potting soil, and containers with drainage holes in the bottom. At planting, fill the container 1/2 to 3/4 full with potting soil, set the bulbs close together on top of the mix and adjust the soil level until the bulb tips are even with the rim of the container. Most bulbs are most attractive when planted in odd numbered groups like 3 or 5. Fill the remainder of the container until the bulb tips show just above the soil surface. Water containers thoroughly before putting them into cold storage and water regularly during the storage period.
Following the appropriate length of cold storage, the potted bulbs are ready to force indoors. Place the containers in a semi-dark location with a temperature of about 60 F. After a few days, place containers in a well-lighted location at normal room temperature to flower. Flowering usually occurs within a few weeks. To enjoy a succession of bloom, remove a few pots every 2 weeks. For extended flowering, keep plants in a moderately lighted location at fairly cool temperatures (65 F) and away from hot and cold drafts. Water plants when the soil surface is dry to the touch.
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